site.btaOhrid’s Paper Museum Doubles as Handmade Paper Workshop

Tucked away among the many small shops and artisan studios in the old town of Ohrid lies one of its most intriguing attractions: the Paper Museum – a functioning workshop for handmade paper.

Though modest in size, the museum offers more than just a glimpse into the art of paper-making. Visitors can not only purchase lithographs printed on handmade paper but also witness the traditional process used to craft it – the same technique once practiced by monks at the St Naum Monastery in the late 16th century.

At the entrance, visitors are greeted by sheets of drying paper in varying shades, their color depending on the type of wood pulp used – oak, walnut, cherry, chestnut, spruce, or mulberry. Some sheets are decorated with embedded flowers, leaves, tea, tobacco, or coffee, giving each one a unique character.

Run by the family of founder Ljupcho Panevski, the museum doubles as a live workshop. Guests are shown each step of the traditional paper-making process: wood pulp, dissolved in water, is strained through a fine mesh screen set in a wooden frame. The resulting sheet is transferred onto cloth for drying, then pressed to maintain its shape and prevent curling.

A highlight of the space is an authentic replica of a Gutenberg press – one of only two preserved in the world – estimated to be 170 years old. It stands proudly at one end of the room as a symbol of the connection between handmade paper and the history of printmaking.

Creating a single sheet of handmade paper takes about 29 days. The longest step is the natural maturing of the wood particles, which can take up to three weeks. The process is inspired by the way wasps build their nests – bonding wood particles without the use of adhesives.

The heartwood is split vertically at a specific angle depending on the type of tree, then soaked in water. The entire process is completely natural and free of chemical additives, say the master craftsmen of handmade paper.

For those wandering the cobbled streets of old Ohrid, the Paper Museum offers not just a quiet escape, but a window into a centuries-old craft brought to life before their eyes.

Using hand-carved stamps coated with tar and resin, artisans can print a variety of designs, including vintage drawings of Ohrid, authentic regional icons, gospel texts, and historical maps.

The workshop, which has operated since 2002, was officially opened by the late President of the Republic of (North) Macedonia, Boris Trajkovski and has become a frequent stop for visiting foreign dignitaries and politicians exploring the cultural heart of the city.

Some of the rare Old Church Slavonic manuscripts produced at the workshop have even reached Vatican City — part of the papal collection, gifted by former North Macedonia President Gjorge Ivanov.