site.btaVarbovka Winery: Historic Winery Embraces Bulgarian Grapes, Plans New Experiments with Kaylashki Muscat

Wines from the Kaylashki Muscat and Gamza varieties are among the most preferred from the production of the winery in the village of Varbovka near Pavlikeni. It has not stopped operating for 91 years and is one of the few such wineries in Bulgaria, said the winery's technologist Kaloyan Penev to BTA.

A centuries-old Roman stone stele, greeting visitors in the yard of the winery, symbolizes the continuity between generations, with vines, characteristic of the region since ancient times, carved as decoration.

Varbovka Winery began as a cooperative, but in 1999, Kaloyan's parents, who are both trained technologists in the winemaking industry, purchased it. They left the winemaking factory in Suhindol, where they had worked up to that point, and continued their professional careers in the private sector. Today, the business is run by Kaloyan’s mother, Svetlana Peneva, who is both the manager and technologist, alongside her son Kaloyan, daughter Laura, and several employees.

The new harvest, in terms of quantity, is much smaller than the previous one, but the  grapes that managed to survive the April frosts are of good quality, Penev said. This means that the wine this year will be more expensive but of higher quality than in the previous two years. "We were very lucky with the vineyards we work with because the Hail Suppression Agency took care of our region, and the rainfall, though not abundant, came at the right time, allowing us to have good raw materials," he explained.

The technologist mentioned that the winery does not own its own vineyards and mainly works with local ones. This year, it processes grapes primarily from Lyaskovets, which are old vineyards from the local winemaking factory, with varieties such as Aligote and Chardonnay. From Suhindol, the winery gets Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Muscat Ottonel, and from Svishtov – Kaylashki Muscat. The typical local grape variety Gamza is expected to be delivered soon. This year, between 60 and 80 tonness of grapes are expected to be processed, yielding about 30-40 tons of wine – white, red, and rosé. The winery also produces the traditional Artemisia-flavoured wine.

The technologists at the winery plan to produce new products and intend to experiment with Kaylaka Muscat. Penev said their company was one of the first to start popularizing this variety back in 2018. According to him, the winery was also the first to hold a vertical tasting of this grape variety, showcasing six consecutive vintages from the same vineyard, which is very interesting for wine connoisseurs. This year, the team plans to experiment with aging Kaylaka Muscat using acacia staves, which will make the wine more complex, the technologist said. He added that they have already experimented with other varieties this way, with good results.

When asked if the winery invests in facilities, new technologies, and equipment, Penev replied that the winery operates on modest funds but with great imagination, achieving sufficiently interesting results.

The Penev family plans to participate in competitions, including international ones, where they have already won many awards. Some contests have high entry fees and expenses, so they carefully consider which ones are truly worth entering.

The winery in Varbovka is part of Bulgaria’s wine tourism map in the northeast and, as such, participates in an annual event usually held at the beginning of summer, Penev explained. At that time, wineries in the region welcome more guests. For inquiries from larger groups wishing to visit the winery, they also organize tastings and tours that include a historical element. Among the visitors are foreigners. Partners of the winery owners from the nearby village of Karpachevo, who run guesthouses, also bring visitors. During one visit, a Swiss family purchased 300 bottles of Bulgarian wine varieties for charity to support local firefighting services.

Visitors to the winery are most often impressed that someone is fighting to preserve something over 90 years old, Penev shared. The preserved old barrels, some of the largest in Bulgaria, also attract interest. There are 24 barrels in total, with varying capacities. The smallest hold about 10,000 litres, and two can hold 17,000 litres each. They were used until 2008 and reflected the production market conditions of that time. The new vessels at the winery now have a capacity of up to 225 liters, showing the industry’s shift toward smaller-scale, niche production. Many wineries with small production quantities showcase the remarkable and colorful character of modern Bulgarian wine. Currently, this is one of the great advantages for winemaking in our country, Penev believes.

In traditional winemaking countries like France or Germany, regions with their long history and regulations effectively limit the styles of wines that can be produced, explained the technologist. On the other hand, in Bulgaria, many projects show a colorful face of winemaking. Thus, every wine lover can find something that suits their taste and vision.

As a calling card of the winery, especially regarding white wines, which currently dominate market demand, Penev identifies the Bulgarian grape variety Kaylaka Muscat. It was developed at the Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking in Pleven in 1976, during a period of intense scientific activity in this field. It was created to be very productive, aromatic, and resistant to all kinds of pests and diseases, which makes it a successful base for further development, Penev believes. “When you have raw material each year with similar characteristics and quality, it gives you the opportunity to build upon it,” he explained, adding that it is much more difficult with more sensitive varieties. Another preferred wine of the winery is Gamza, which is typical for the region. Overall, we focus on Bulgarian varieties; we also work with Tamyanka and Rubin, Penev added.

Working with grapes and wine gives a unique positive emotion; otherwise, I wouldn’t be involved in this, said the technologist. “Wine is a science, and I would even call it one of the most digestible forms of art. Perhaps it is no coincidence that at an exhibition in Varna, a woman tasted our wine and started crying because it reminded her of a close person. To give people such feelings is priceless,” Penev said.